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Installing the Glacier Bay 12 in. Rough-In Dual Flush Toilet: A Comprehensive Guide

Upgrading a toilet might not be the most glamorous home improvement project, but it’s undeniably one of the most impactful. A modern, efficient toilet can save water, reduce your utility bills, and improve the overall functionality and aesthetic of your bathroom. Today, we're diving deep into the installation process for the Glacier Bay 12 in. Rough-In 2-Piece 1.1 GPF/1.6 GPF Dual Flush Round Toilet in White (Model # 71338221). This model offers the dual-flush functionality, allowing you to choose between a reduced flush for liquid waste and a full flush for solid waste, a significant step up in water conservation. We’ll walk you through everything from gathering your tools to the final seal, ensuring a successful and leak-free installation.

The expected outcome of this guide is a perfectly installed, fully functional Glacier Bay dual-flush toilet. You’ll gain a new appliance that’s not only aesthetically pleasing with its clean white finish and classic round shape but also environmentally conscious due to its water-saving dual-flush mechanism. Expect a comfortable user experience and the satisfaction of having tackled a significant plumbing task yourself.

What You'll Need: Tools and Materials

Before you begin, ensure you have all the necessary tools and materials. Having everything on hand will prevent frustrating interruptions and ensure a smooth workflow.

Tools:

• Adjustable Wrench: For tightening and loosening nuts on the water supply line and tank bolts.

• Screwdriver Set: Typically a Phillips head is needed for the toilet seat and sometimes for tank components.

• Level: Crucial for ensuring the toilet is plumb and stable.

• Putty Knife or Scraper: For removing the old wax ring.

• Pry Bar (optional): Can assist in lifting the old toilet if it's stuck.

• Bucket: To catch any residual water when disconnecting the old toilet.

• Rags or Old Towels: For cleaning up spills and drying surfaces.

• Utility Knife: For cutting sealant or trimming materials if needed.

• Gloves: For hygiene and protection.

• Safety Glasses: To protect your eyes from debris.

• Hacksaw or PVC Cutter (if needed): To trim the flush valve if it's too tall.

Materials:

• Glacier Bay 12 in. Rough-In Dual Flush Toilet: Model # 71338221 (includes tank, bowl, seat, lid, and all internal tank components).

• Wax Ring with Horn: Essential for creating a watertight seal between the toilet and the drainpipe. The horn helps guide waste into the drain.

• Toilet Flange Bolts (closet bolts): Typically included with the wax ring, these secure the toilet to the flange.

• Toilet Flange Sealant/Caulk: For sealing the base of the toilet to the floor.

• New Water Supply Line: Recommended for a fresh connection, especially if the old one is stiff or corroded. Look for a braided stainless steel line.

• Plumber's Tape (Teflon Tape): For threaded water supply connections.

• Rags or Sponges: For cleaning.

Before You Begin: Preparation and Safety

Proper preparation is key to a successful toilet installation. Rushing this stage can lead to mistakes and a less-than-ideal outcome.

Safety First:

• Turn Off Water Supply: Locate the shut-off valve behind the existing toilet (usually on the wall or floor) and turn it clockwise until it stops. Flush the old toilet to drain most of the water from the tank and bowl.

• Disconnect Water: Place a bucket or towels beneath the water supply line connection to catch any residual water. Use an adjustable wrench to disconnect the supply line from the fill valve.

• Wear Protection: Always wear gloves and safety glasses. Old toilets can harbor bacteria, and you don't want to risk injury from sharp debris.

Removing the Old Toilet:

This is often the messiest part. Be prepared for some water and possibly some grime.

• Empty the Tank and Bowl: Flush the toilet one last time. Use a sponge or rags to remove any remaining water from the tank and bowl.

• Remove the Tank: Underneath the tank, you'll see two nuts connecting it to the bowl. Use an adjustable wrench to loosen and remove these nuts. Lift the tank straight up and off the bowl. Place it aside.

• Remove the Bowl: You'll see two bolts at the base of the toilet, usually covered by plastic caps. Pry off these caps with a screwdriver or putty knife. Loosen and remove the nuts from these bolts. If the toilet is caulked around the base, carefully cut through the caulk with a utility knife.

• Lift and Remove the Bowl: Gently rock the toilet bowl to break the wax seal. Lift the bowl straight up and off the flange. This is where a second person can be helpful, as the bowl can be heavy and awkward.

• Remove the Old Wax Ring: Once the toilet is removed, you'll see the flange and the old wax ring around it. Use a putty knife or scraper to remove the old wax ring and any debris from the flange and the floor. Clean the area thoroughly.

• Inspect the Flange: Ensure the toilet flange is not cracked or damaged. If it is, it will need to be repaired or replaced before proceeding. The flange should sit flush with or slightly above the finished floor. If it's too low, you might need flange extenders.

Preparing the New Toilet:

Unpack your new Glacier Bay toilet carefully. Inspect all components for any damage incurred during shipping. Familiarize yourself with the parts, especially the tank-to-bowl gasket and the internal tank components.

Step-by-Step Installation Instructions

With the old toilet out and the area prepped, it’s time to install your new Glacier Bay dual-flush toilet.

1. Install the New Toilet Flange Bolts:

Insert the new toilet flange bolts into the slots on the toilet flange. Position them so they are parallel to the wall behind the toilet, perpendicular to the flange. They should stick up about 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the flange. Some kits come with plastic guides to help keep them in place.

2. Place the Wax Ring:

Take your new wax ring with a horn. Press it firmly onto the flange, centering it around the opening. Ensure the plastic horn on the wax ring is pointing down into the drainpipe. Some prefer to place the wax ring directly onto the underside of the toilet bowl's outlet horn instead. Either method creates a seal; just ensure it's centered and firmly seated.

3. Set the New Toilet Bowl:

Carefully lift the new toilet bowl and align the bolt holes on its base with the flange bolts. Lower the bowl straight down onto the wax ring, ensuring the bolts pass through the holes in the base. Press down firmly and evenly to seat the bowl and create a seal. Do not rock or twist the bowl once it’s seated, as this can break the wax seal.

4. Secure the Toilet Bowl:

Place the washers and nuts onto the flange bolts. Hand-tighten them first. Then, use an adjustable wrench to tighten them further. Be cautious: Do not overtighten, as this can crack the porcelain bowl. Tighten them evenly, alternating between the two bolts, until the bowl feels stable and doesn't rock. Use a level to ensure the bowl is plumb. If it’s not, you may need to use shims under the base before fully tightening the nuts.

5. Install the Tank:

Locate the tank-to-bowl gasket. Place it onto the threaded bolts extending from the bottom of the tank. Carefully position the tank onto the back of the bowl, aligning the holes in the tank with the bolts. Ensure the gasket is properly seated. From underneath the bowl, place the rubber washers and nuts onto the tank bolts. Hand-tighten them, then use an adjustable wrench to snug them up. Again, avoid overtightening. You want the tank to be stable and sealed, but not under excessive stress.

6. Connect the Water Supply Line:

Apply plumber’s tape to the threads of the fill valve on the toilet tank. Connect the new water supply line to the fill valve. Hand-tighten, then use an adjustable wrench to give it a quarter to half turn. Connect the other end of the supply line to the shut-off valve on the wall. Hand-tighten, then use the wrench for a similar snugness. Avoid overtightening, which can damage the threads or the connector.

7. Turn On Water and Check for Leaks:

Slowly turn the water supply valve back on (counter-clockwise). Listen for water filling the tank. Once the tank is full and the fill valve shuts off, inspect all connections for leaks: the supply line at the valve, the supply line at the tank, and around the base of the tank where it meets the bowl. Also, check the base of the toilet for any water seeping out from under the bowl.

8. Test the Flush:

Press the dual-flush buttons on the lid. You should hear the flush valve operate and water fill the tank. Flush the toilet to ensure it empties properly and refills to the correct water level. Check the tank for leaks again after flushing.

9. Caulk the Base (Optional but Recommended):

Once you are absolutely certain there are no leaks, you can apply a bead of toilet bowl sealant or caulk around the base of the toilet where it meets the floor. This prevents spills from seeping underneath and adds a finished look. Leave a small gap at the back to allow any future leaks to be visible.

10. Attach the Toilet Seat:

Install the included toilet seat according to the manufacturer's instructions. This typically involves inserting bolts through the seat hinges and into mounting holes on the bowl, then securing them with nuts from underneath. For this Glacier Bay model, the seat is usually a quick-install type with a top-mount mechanism.

Tips and Tricks from Experience

Having installed my fair share of toilets, here are a few insights that can make the process even smoother:

• Don't Skip the Wax Ring Horn: The horn on the wax ring is designed to guide waste directly into the drainpipe. Without it, or if it's not properly aligned, you risk clogs and potential leaks.

• Use a Fluidmaster or Similar Fill Valve: While the Glacier Bay comes with a fill valve, if you ever need to replace one, consider a high-quality aftermarket fill valve like those from Fluidmaster. They are often more durable and adjustable.

• The "Rock and Roll" Test for Flange Height: After setting the bowl, before you tighten the nuts, gently rock the toilet. If it rocks significantly, your flange might be too low, or the floor isn't level. Shims can help, but a very wobbly toilet might indicate a flange issue.

• Double-Check the Tank-to-Bowl Gasket: This is a common leak point. Ensure it's seated squarely on the tank bolts and that the tank is sitting flush on the bowl. Overtightening the tank bolts can sometimes crush this gasket, leading to leaks.

• Consider a Stainless Steel Supply Line: The flexible, braided stainless steel supply lines are far superior to old-fashioned plastic or rubber ones. They are less prone to bursting and provide a cleaner look.

• Clean the Flange Threads: If your old toilet had metal closet bolts, the threads can get corroded. Clean them with a wire brush if necessary.

• The "No Wax" Seal Option: For those who absolutely despise dealing with wax, there are wax-free toilet seals available. They use a rubber or foam gasket and can be a cleaner alternative, though some plumbers still swear by traditional wax.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Even with careful installation, you might encounter a few hiccups. Here’s how to address them:

1. Leaking at the Base of the Toilet:

• Cause: Improperly seated wax ring, loose tank bolts, or a cracked flange.

• Solution: If you've just installed it, the most likely culprit is the wax ring. You’ll need to loosen the tank bolts, lift the bowl, remove the old wax ring, and re-seat it, ensuring a good seal. If the toilet rocks, tighten the closet bolts evenly until stable. Check the flange for damage.

2. Water Leaking from the Tank Bolts:

Cause: The rubber washers or nuts connecting the tank to the bowl are loose, or the tank-to-bowl gasket is damaged/misaligned.

Solution: Tighten the tank bolts slightly. If that doesn't work, you may need to remove the tank, inspect the tank-to-bowl gasket for damage or proper seating, and reinstall.

3. Water Leaking from the Supply Line Connection:

Cause: Loose connection or damaged threads/washer.

Solution: Tighten the connection slightly. If it still leaks, turn off the water, disconnect the line, check the rubber washer inside the connector and the threads for damage, apply new plumber’s tape, and reconnect.

4. Toilet Doesn't Flush Completely or Slowly Refills:

Cause: Low water level in the tank, clogged flush valve, or partially closed shut-off valve.

Solution: Ensure the shut-off valve is fully open. Check the water level in the tank; it should be at the marked fill line. If the fill valve is adjustable, raise the water level. You can also check the flush valve for debris. Ensure the refill tube is directing water into the overflow tube and not just into the bowl.

5. Dual Flush Buttons Not Working Correctly:

Cause: Misaligned or jammed flush valve linkage.

Solution: Open the tank lid and inspect the linkage connecting the buttons to the flush valve. Ensure nothing is obstructing its movement. Adjustments may be needed according to the toilet's manual.

Conclusion: A Solid Foundation for Your Bathroom

Installing the Glacier Bay 12 in. Rough-In 2-Piece Dual Flush Toilet is a rewarding project that brings significant benefits in water savings and modern functionality. By following these detailed steps, paying close attention to preparation, and using the right tools, you can achieve a professional-quality installation. The dual-flush mechanism is a standout feature, offering flexibility and contributing to a more sustainable home. Remember to take your time, double-check your connections, and don't hesitate to refer back to the manual or this guide if you encounter any issues. A well-installed toilet is a quiet, efficient, and reliable fixture that will serve your household for years to come. Enjoy the peace of mind and water savings that come with your newly installed Glacier Bay toilet.